Why is the surfboard type so important? You need a surfboard that gives you the performance you need to ride waves. You need a surfboard that
• Paddles easy
• Catches waves easily
• Floats your weight
• Fits your height
• Is good for the conditions where you surf
• Suits your level of surfing
I believe in the saying that “foam is your friend”. Too often surfers choose a surfboard type that looks cool, that is too thin, too narrow, has too much nose rocker, and is too thin. The “cool” surfboard is normally way too small for the rider.
Surfing a board that is too small for you makes it much more difficult for you to have fun and success on the waves. The cool surfboard is hard to paddle, makes catching waves difficult, does not float you, and stalls out when you need to transition to the next section of the wave.
If you have a surfboard that is fit to your size and weight, you will be able to catch more waves because the board will float you and make it easy for you to paddle. You will be able to make sections that you couldn’t possibly have made on a surfboard type that was too small for you.
Having a board that paddles easy allows you to get in the wave earlier, which allows you to make better decisions in the beginning of the wave and gives you better results on the wave. Catching the wave early makes it easier to transition from the prone paddling position to the standup position. You will not have to sit and wait until the last second when the wave is just about to break, which results in a very difficult maneuver called a “late takeoff”. Experts can do this, but normally getting into the wave early is preferable for intermediates and beginners.
Surfing the proper type surfboard will make your surfing session fun and give you a good feeling of success. You always want to come out of the water with a smile on your face. In most cases, the proper equipment will make this possible no matter what the surfing conditions.
Rely on the experts and the belief that “foam is your friend” in picking out the surfboard that will best suit you for the overall conditions at your local surf break.
Fun and success surfing is what you want to experience with your new surfboard and that is what you will have with the proper type surfboard.
It is so much fun to Surf Life. The type surfboard you choose will make this happen.